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Baggage Behind The Baubles
Later this month, the glittering baubles and watches that line circumstances in Cartier’s boutiques shall be competing for the spotlight with Marcello de Cartier baggage.
Marlin Yuson, inventive director for Cartier leather items, admits jewellery and watches salvatore ferragamo slip on loafers are all the time going to be the principle event. ‘The baggage are the supporting cast however an essential character,’ says the designer, who has worked with Ferragamo, Polo Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein, and spends her time between Florence and Paris.
The fact that the model will not be recognized for its leather goods has long represented a challenge for Yuson. ‘In a manner we are battling a typical perception of the brand. Most individuals don’t realise that Cartier does leather bags,’ she says. ‘In the event you weren’t a part of a era that knew that Cartier did leather-based merchandise, then the Marcello bags would come as a shock. I still get that, even after 10 years with the model. There’s no bag marketing campaign and there will not be. The leather-based items are a part of the family, but they will never be independent products.’
Yuson says Cartier baggage had been thought of ‘it’ baggage in the ’70s and ’80s, modelled by celebrities corresponding to Tina Turner. ‘Then it stopped. Cartier did other dressy bags however very, very classic luggage. After which the whole handbag equipment craze took over.’
When designing the Marcello, Yuson knew what a contemporary bag ought to – or reasonably, shouldn’t – be. ‘I really don’t see it as an ‘it’ bag, not one thing as ephemeral as what’s in development,’ she says. ‘I did not want it to be too old school and appear like a relic, either. I did not want to stick a panther or leopard on it; that could be too easy. I have never put in animal prints, both, but. And it’s actually not for ‘ladies who lunch’.’
Yuson decided to take care of the onerous corner of Cartier’s earlier luggage. ‘I wanted to keep that iconic bookend sort of arch. The luggage needed volume and pockets to be practical for the girl on the go.’
Yuson says that she does not have a selected muse but she’d love to see Alexa Chung or IMF chief Christine Lagarde carrying her luggage. ‘Strong, assured, influential ladies who did not sacrifice their femininity of their business,’ she says. ‘Women on the move, who’ve kids, or are working … they’re those I hope will embrace the bag, for its sensible functions.’
The Marcello is a big bag with the interlocking Cs brand that can be joined in shops with a sequence of night clutches in September.
Cartier’s first evening bag got here out in 1906. ‘Initially, the evening baggage have been very much about jewellery,’ says Yuson. ‘The finishings on the luggage were valuable, and the bags themselves were one-off items for royalty and unique order clients.’
She says that when she was creating the designs, she carried the luggage round during her travels to observe their performance.
‘Translating the Cartier bag to the present and holding that identity – that luxurious feel to it – is hard, particularly where there are so many vogue manufacturers around,’ she says. ‘I caught to a household of colours to maintain it coherent: crimson and black, tobacco or cognac.’
The first inspiration for the baggage got here from the materials, she says.
‘Looking at the standard, texture and colours, concepts come to mind,’ says Yuson. ‘Even something as trifling as a buckle turns into a starting point. Texture is actually necessary.