ferragamo spring 2015, salvatore ferragamo in Men's Shoes
Inside Ferragamo’s Resort Footwear Collection
Not too long ago, Paul Andrew, the British shoe designer who now lives in New York City, discovered himself sitting in a large Gothic palace in Florence, Italy, almost totally filled with shoes. “There had been over 15,000 pairs,” he recalls, nonetheless bemused. Frescos—faded from time but no much less transcendent—sprawled above his head, while gilded moldings decorated nearly each nook and cranny in sight. It was the Palazzo Spini Feroni, a medieval mansion initially inbuilt 1289 by the service provider Geri Spini that now houses the archives of Salvatore Ferragamo.
Final September, the inventive, who has brownish blond hair neatly combed within the gentlest quaff, joined the fashion home as its new design director overlooking women’s footwear. A 12 months later, he’s become artistic director across all prepared-to-put on, accessories, and leather goods, and the like.
Born in rural England, Andrew recalls an early interest in type. His father labored as an upholsterer for the British Royal Household, whereas his mother delighted with him within the glamour of Christian Lacroix and the like. In the younger boy’s spare time, he’d digest copies of Vogue. Later, while studying on the Berkshire School of Artwork & Design, a professor urged footwear as his focus. Andrew’s first realized assortment debuted at London’s Graduate Trend Week, seizing the attention of veteran trend buyer Yasmin Sewell and leading to an apprenticeship for Lee McQueen. Soon after, Andrew journeyed to NYC, where he launched Narciso Rodriguez’s footwear line, labored for Calvin Klein, and designed for Donna Karan for almost a decade.
In 2012, Andrew began his personal namesake line of ladylike, single-sole sneakers that provided a timeless edge with pink-carpet grace. Two years later, he became the first shoe designer to win the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, and has since been nominated twice for the Swarovski Award for Accessory Design, taking it residence the second time around this past year.
Flower Heel Sandal with gold hardware element, $1,190.
Accessible at Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques.
At Ferragamo, Andrew’s task has been reinterpretation. How can one revisit the past in new and compelling methods “Everything I do is based on what I’ve found from the archives,” he explains. “The challenge is distilling these very personal notions from 80 years ago and making them very modern for today.” The house’s eponym was well-known for a lot of things—Hollywood curiosity, exaggerated drama, Florentine charm—but perhaps nothing is more related to this than his innovation in design. Salvatore Ferragamo’s work was architectural and revolutionary, from the crocodile stilettos he made for Marilyn Monroe (“it’s quite humbling to hold those,” laughs Andrew) to the iconic F-formed heel, for which the founding designer won the Neiman Marcus Award in 1947. First introduced as a sandal, the design references its maker’s identify, but in addition mimics the curvature of the letter “F” in cursive. “The means the heel defies gravity, individuals look at it and ask if it’s even doable to be worn!” says Andrew, who rendered the shoe in a new version for the house’s 2018 Resort assortment.
Flower Heel Slipper with floral print, $495.
Available at Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques.
Based mostly on an original drawing by the founder, the reinvented style is barely extra underslung and sits a bit increased, says Andrew. “Salvatore was solely in a position to cowl the heel with a seam because it was such an excessive curve that leather couldn’t be molded over the shape. I had a bit more assist by way of today’s know-how.” Andrew’s new F Heel joins a seasonal line that very much displays his final effort for the fashion house: reconciling the longer term with the previous.
As a creative, Ferragamo was typically fascinated by floral motifs; in homage Andrew revisited the Covent Backyard flower markets of his youth to search out Resort inspiration. The photographs he took there turned the basis of the graphic printed silks in the collection, meant to also reference the house’s own iconic scarves. Andrew additionally reconsidered Ferragamo’s 1939 Flower Heel silhouette. “It’s develop into essentially the most main inspiration to me,” he smiles. “The heel proportion has been reworked and now comes in stiletto and block heel versions. It’s additionally getting used on buttons in ready-to-wear and on baggage.”
“F” Wedge in blue satin and gold galvanized heel, $1,600.
Out there at Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques.
With lively purples and lush greens, Ferragamo’s shade palette this season is more vibrant than ever. The ferragamo spring 2015 iris flower, which details Andrew’s prints, is an emblem of Florence, yes, however maybe is also emblematic of the style house on this new chapter. “I’m honing in on sophistication,” says the designer, “but also amusement. Salvatore was such a brave designer.