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Milan Trend Week (Sunday): Prada Takes Inspiration From Graphic Novels For Show
MILAN — A contemporary breeze buffeted Italy’s vogue capital throughout the second day of Milan Vogue Week on Sunday, both literally, bringing relief from the June heat, and figuratively, as young designers took the spotlight.
They brought with them contemporary silhouettes with new proportions and reinterpretations of old summertime favorites from linens to stripes.
Listed below are highlights from menswear previews Sunday in Milan for next spring and summer:
Miuccia Prada took inspiration from graphic novels for her latest collection, which aims to create a dialogue between the digital world and the true world.
The digital world is in an exhibit at the brand’s Fondazione Prada contemporary artwork exhibition space. Trend is Prada’s reality.
She employed two artists — James Jean from Los Angeles and Ollie Schrauwen of Belgium — to create graphic stories on a human and never superhero scale that lined the walls of the showroom and grew to become the prints that outlined Sunday’s menswear collection in Milan.
Scenes included a robot monkey and an oversized spider descending to select up houses. Prada said she was interested in the comics as a result of they prove data in bit-measurement pieces — a lot the same approach social media does in the present day.
Nylon jumpsuits defined the Prada silhouette, belted at the waist and gathered on the ankles and cuffs with plastic Prada labels. Shirt collars have been turned up. There was a shorts model worn with Prada men’s knee socks and pointy leather shoes.
The silhouette was repeated in casualwear, with sweaters tucked into athletic-fashion trousers. Meshed sweaters of horizontal stripes tucked into houndstooth pattern trousers turned up right into a thick cuff. Sandals with socks anchored these seems to be.
Graphic prints appeared in both pastel colours and black and white on shirts, jacket panels and bags. Prada said she added overcoats to unify the looks.
“Everything was a bit of naive, too easy,” she mentioned. ‘‘We thought these large heavy coats could be the right counterpart. That’s simply vogue.”
Textures at Ferragamo
Guillaume Meilland’s second assortment for Ferragamo is impressed by the Mediterranean coastline shared by his native France and adopted Italy.
The looks are defined by texture: cable-knit fishermen’s sweaters, velvety shorts, corduroy trousers and suede laser cut tops, all hearty fare for wind-swept seaside strolls. The designer additionally added touches of whimsy like sea horse prints and coral key chains.
“Yes I like the thought of getting, for me, one thing very Italian, something very much linked to the thought of the holidays and the seaside,” Meilland said backstage. “Textures, colours, we are trying mix mushy velvet, English fabrics and heavy linens … The fluid and one thing extra rough.”
The appears to be like mixed for an easy silhouette that Meilland stated was impressed by the 1960 French movie “Purple Noon,” based mostly on the Patricia Highsmith’s “Ripley” novels.
Ferragamo’s footwear included penny loafers or slip on moccasins with rubber soles adorned with the trademark buckle for the city or rope accents for the seaside.
Italian rapper Ghali honed in on a pair of velvety shorts with a sea horse print on a golden background from the front row of Ferragamo’s show for subsequent spring and summer.
“I actually like the collection. I really like plenty of the textures that I saw,” said Ghali, a Milan native whose new album, titled “Album,” is being promoted with an ad on the Duomo cathedral.
Brutalism at Bikkembergs
Lee Wooden laid the seams bare at Dirk Bikkembergs throughout his second season as its artistic director.
The clear assortment revealed the construction details that create rhythms with their repetition, from the patchwork trousers to the intarsia knitwear.
Wood mentioned he was impressed by the brutalism architectural movement of the late 1960s and early 1970s that stood in opposition to adornment.
“I wished it to be brutal. I wanted it to be honest. I wished it to be like men ought to be,” Lee stated backstage. ‘‘I don’t wish to see men all pretty and excellent. I think a man needs to be rugged.”
The traces had been easy, with neat T-shirts with scooped necks paired with city patchwork trousers reduce from pure fabrics. The cuffs have been turned as much as reveal the tough seam. Heavy boots and utilitarian sandals anchored the seems to be.
Suit jackets have been worn with shorts that had been almost bloomers in proportion, a fob to summer season, whereas some trousers had been festooned with maxi-pockets. Tops, by contrast, were tender, like one which was a patchwork of gold, mild blue and white.
Whereas the supplies have been principally natural fibers and the color palette based mostly on hues of blue, white and slate gray, the gathering closed with flashes of inexperienced and Japanese technical fabric.
Yolo from Korea
Korean designer Munsoo Kwon made his Milan debut in the Armani theater with a collection that contained some measure of autobiography.
The triptych assortment consists of pieces primarily based on European tailoring, Korean military wear and a collection of character appears to be like. ferragamo blue shoes mens The thread that connects them all: The YOLO phenomenon, beforehand, earlier than the invention of abbreviation-loving social media, referred to as ‘‘You Solely Reside As soon as.”
The 37-yr-previous Kwon expresses his whimsy with out-of-proportion cuts: Boyish striped sweaters that are part of his character series are gigantic with broad, trailing arms, dwarfing the wearer.
The military looks are elongated and delicate, not your ordinary regimented rendering. And the tailor-made outfits are clean and elegant, featuring pinstripe pants with long belts worn with a pajama-impressed prime and a trench coat with bell sleeves.
School’s out for Sunnei
The hallway of an creative highschool was the runway for the Sunnei model by designers Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo. The occasion: The final day of college.
“For us, this is an expression of whole freedom,” Rizzo mentioned of the gathering.
The appears to be like are extra artsty student than seaside, even if the striped button-down tops and shorts recalled seashore umbrellas. Suits featured boxy jackets and athletic drawstring pants, which could be worn with a plasticized denim overcoat. Footwear included sling-again sneakers.
Oversized sweaters came with matching water bottle holders and T-shirts performed on social media with a photograph of Myspace founder Tom Anderson with the slogan “Forever Tom,” relationship even the younger designers of the three-yr-previous brand.
“We show our lives, our day by day existence. We don’t seek advice from the past,” Rizzo stated.
Dean and Dan Caten, the Canadian twins behind the DSquared2 label, have made their mark on Milan — most just lately with a neon maple leaf on the former distillery where they confirmed subsequent year’s warm weather appears for women and men.
The designers put a jangle within the models’ stroll with buckled leather straps in neat rows up the sleeves of sweaters, down the legs of trousers and leggings, and across boots.
Hawaiian floral prints were the accent of the season, with floral shirts paired busily with leopard leggings or worn over the trademark Canadian plaid. Painted florals accented leather-based pants and skirts, and appeared as panel overlays on denim jackets.
Womenswear featured dramatically layered long ruffle tulle skirts that were usually paired with easy T-shirts. Men also can indulge in some light ruffles down the entrance of their tank tops.